UPDATE: This is why I love forums like this, power of the hive mind. Having reviewed Toyota-tech I think I know what's going on. For whatever reason the 4x RHD markets in the EU simply don't have it. Only RoW and LHD EU6 have it. All EU6 cars have a different switch layout (airbag light) than ROW cars. Short answer the RHD diagram is RoW. The LHD wiring diagram is the one to go off for EU6 cars. Assuming we can make the buttons fit.
I'm not going to post the wiring diagram for fear of copyright infringement. There are interesting differences for heated seats between LHD and RHD cars.
For RHD the 10Amp fuse is shown to supply power to 'No 6 Junction Controller' on Pin 1 of white connector A (brown wire). From there pins 9&10 on black connector B (light blue & black respectively) are the ignition side 12V+ to the switches. I believe Junction Controller 6 is up in the nsf passenger footwell.
The 100Amp fuse supplies power to the 'IC' - I think this is the relay module - from this pins 6&7 (green, black) on the grey connector 4B carry battery side 12V+ to the switches. The other two pins 39&40 (blue, grey) on the white connector 4C are the load side 12V+ to the cushion element. The seat back connects to the cushion.
On the LHD diagram both 10A and 100A fuses wire direct to the 'IC', with only two pins, 39&40 (green, red) on the white connector 4C wire directly to the switch. The seat element are wired direct to the switch for both High/Low as above.
What's interesting between the two diagram I'm looking at are:
A) For RHD the switches are 'cold', they only switch a relay. The heater elements are wired to the battery. For LHD market the switches are 'hot' meaning the heat elements load runs through the switch. This could explain why there are different part numbers for LHD and RHD switches.
B) For RHD switch internals require 12V+ on both inputs (ignition & battery) to work. For LHD it's only battery 12V+
C) RHD market appears to have only the High heating element, the Low element is wired to chassis ground.
D) Both markets 'IC' shows a pair of relays 'S/HTRF/L & S/HTRF/R, one for each seat. Probing any empty relays for a battery and/or ignition 12V+ would save having to run new supplies.
It's my experience that, unless one's a sadist, wires are omitted rather than circuits re-drawn. ie, it may be possible to simply wire in these empty pins for an OE quality retrofit. Assuming I can get it working, and maybe someone beats me to it, and we don't have to hack into anything I'd consider making up sub-loom assemblies for anyone who wants one.