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How to hardwire a dashcam

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36K views 59 replies 31 participants last post by  triumph202  
#1 ·
Hi all,

I put together a video guide on how to install a dashcam. It's semi-permanent using a piggy back fuse. You'll need an M4 bolt with a star washer to get a ground as the whole chassis (inside and out) is painted. Otherwise some trim removal tools is pretty much all you need.

This is quite a significant improvement over my old Ford as the interiors weren't painted, so you could get a ground nearly anywhere.That was probably the only positive of the interiors not being painted though!

Anyway, hope this is of use and provides an alternative to paying dealers to fit. Without filming, you could have this done in 20 mins.

Cheers
Jonny

 
Z
#18 · (Edited)
#23 · (Edited)
@JBCTR you mention in the video that you used a switched fuse socket. Is there a particular reason for that, please?

I'm wondering, wouldn't it be better to use a constant one, instead?

I'm asking as my camera (Nextbase 300W) needs constant power supply for the 'parking' feature to work. Thanks!

From the Nextbase 300W manual:

Parking Mode

There is only one method of using parking Mode, which is by using a 'Permanent Live'. This means that there is always 12Vdc being supplied to the Dash Cam. This can either by using a 12Vdc outlet that does not power off when the vehicles ignition is turned off or by using the Nextbase Hardwire Kit which has been installed using a permanent live fuse location. Once Parking Mode has been turned on, the Dash Cam will enter standby mode when there is no physical movement detected for a 5 minute period. Should physical movement of the vehicle be detected, the Dash Cam will power on and start recording a 1 minute protected video and then will continue to record normally until there is no physical movement detected for a 5 minute period.
Click to expand...
 
#24 ·
It's just to stop the battery going flat. I can see why you'd want to use a constant live to take advantage of the parking feature, but you run the risk of not being able to start the car when you return!

Blackvue do something called a 'Power Magic Pro' which apparently checks the voltage of the vehicle battery periodically and then stops the dashcam from drawing power when the vehicle battery gets low. Seems like a good idea, but I've never used one so I don't know how well they work.

Link here: https://www.halfords.com/technology/dash-cam-accessories/blackvue-power-magic-pro-477730.html
 
#28 · (Edited)
JBCTR said:
It's just to stop the battery going flat. I can see why you'd want to use a constant live to take advantage of the parking feature, but you run the risk of not being able to start the car when you return!

Blackvue do something called a 'Power Magic Pro' which apparently checks the voltage of the vehicle battery periodically and then stops the dashcam from drawing power when the vehicle battery gets low. Seems like a good idea, but I've never used one so I don't know how well they work.

Link here: https://www.halfords.com/technology/dash-cam-accessories/blackvue-power-magic-pro-477730.html
Click to expand...
Every day a school day, for me. Apparently it is mentioned on the packaging of the Nextbase Dash Cam Hardwire Kit that there is an in-built minimum voltage limiter to protect the car battery, if the camera is fitted to a constant. Similar note on the item's listing on the Halfords website, with a reference to a 11.2 voltage cut-off point.
 
#29 · (Edited)
Installed mine today with the help of @jbctr's video. Installed a Garmin Dashcam mini which requires two power feeds, switched from the USB socket and always on so used the dome lights.

M4 bolt worked a treat for ground, remember to add two fuses to your piggy back connectors otherwise they don't work!! Cables easy to hide for a good looking pro job. Fuse puller needs to be a mini puller as big ones don't work £1.50 I'll never see again!!

Finally with the mini, workout where to stick it before you do, luckily they supply two mounting pads.

349F5749-E86D-4114-97B3-059117C0173F.jpeg


307FFABD-80C6-4B75-8D1A-03FDFA6B2770.jpeg
 
#31 ·
GR-FOUR.UK said:
Installed mine today with the help of @jbctr's video. Installed a Garmin Dashcam mini which requires two power feeds, switched from the USB socket and always on so used the dome lights.

M4 bolt worked a treat for ground, remember to add two fuses to your piggy back connectors otherwise they don't work!! Cables easy to hide for a good looking pro job. Fuse puller needs to be a mini puller as big ones don't work £1.50 I'll never see again!!

Finally with the mini, workout where to stick it before you do, luckily they supply two mounting pads.

View attachment 16355

View attachment 16356
Click to expand...
Looking at fitting one of these. I take it you bought the Garmin Parking Mode Cable as well? Do you have a link for the piggy back connectors and fuses please?
 
#32 ·
Heisenberg said:
Looking at fitting one of these. I take it you bought the Garmin Parking Mode Cable as well? Do you have a link for the piggy back connectors and fuses please?
Click to expand...
I got the cable as well, you can get the piggy back connectors at Halfords and Amazon - Low profile mini fuse type

Image
 
#33 ·
GR-FOUR.UK said:
Installed mine today with the help of @jbctr's video. Installed a Garmin Dashcam mini which requires two power feeds, switched from the USB socket and always on so used the dome lights.

M4 bolt worked a treat for ground, remember to add two fuses to your piggy back connectors otherwise they don't work!! Cables easy to hide for a good looking pro job. Fuse puller needs to be a mini puller as big ones don't work £1.50 I'll never see again!!

Finally with the mini, workout where to stick it before you do, luckily they supply two mounting pads.

View attachment 16355

View attachment 16356
Click to expand...
just checked, there is a white fuse puller in the engine's fuse box. part no. 82616.
£1.50 ouch.
 
H
#35 ·
With GR Fours help I managed to hard wire the Garmin Mini 2 dashcam myself.

I used the bolt / washer which attaches the black car dash to the bodywork to earth it (in same location as JB CTR video - just above the empty threaded hole).

Additionally used a long nosed plier to pull the fuse out (the ones I bought from Amazon didn’t work). Was blind to the one supplied by factory.

I also used the dome light for the battery connection and the power socket (along side dome light) for the switched connection. So far so good ! Been watching footage of my garage wall hoping for something interesting to happen :ROFLMAO:
 
F
#47 ·
hrp123 said:
With GR Fours help I managed to hard wire the Garmin Mini 2 dashcam myself.

I used the bolt / washer which attaches the black car dash to the bodywork to earth it (in same location as JB CTR video - just above the empty threaded hole).

Additionally used a long nosed plier to pull the fuse out (the ones I bought from Amazon didn't work). Was blind to the one supplied by factory.

I also used the dome light for the battery connection and the power socket (along side dome light) for the switched connection. So far so good ! Been watching footage of my garage wall hoping for something interesting to happen :ROFLMAO:
Click to expand...
When you say you used the power socket for the switched connection,do you mean the red cable was attached to the USB fuse and the yellow parking cable attached to the dome light fuse as per the fuse box diagram highlighted by GR.four.Uk??
 
B
#44 ·
I have used this as my earth, is there any reason I shouldnt? Looks to me its being used an earth for other things?

Image


My dash cam has stopped working half way through installing, can't think of any reason why apart from maybe that the battery saving function has kicked in and voltage dropped below 11.6V maybe? I have putting ignition on and off but haven't been out in the car as I have covid. I've started the car up for a while to see if this helps but nothing. Although I don't know how long i'd need to run the car for to charge it back to full?
Is this a possibility or am I looking in the wrong place? I've checked fuses and de-routed all cables to check for damage.
 
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