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seize compound change the torque for the nut...
... to an unknown...

Agree, indeed the whole design of a bolted connection centers around a know friction coefficient in the threads. Lowering friction means more of the applied torque is going to clamping force, potentially overstretching the studs, with ultimately the wheel breaking off worst case.
If using anti-seize, it must be specially formulated not to reduce metal to metal friction.
 
Aftermarket is always bigger, you should however inquire that you receive correct spigot rings. They are important to centre the wheel correctly.
Not necessarily, you can order some wheels with the correct centre bore. For track wheels I usually try to get a dedicated centre bore. Team Dynamics will do them (when they eventually re-open) with the correct bore. The best bet if you're using spigot rings is to get alloy or stainless ones. Put the two dimensions into eBay and you'll find a few sellers. Plastic spigot rings have a tendency to melt on front wheels.
 
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Not necessarily, you can order some wheels with the correct centre bore. For track wheels I usually try to get a dedicated centre bore. Team Dynamics will do them (when they eventually re-open) with the correct bore. The best bet if you're using spigot rings is to get alloy or stainless ones. Put the two dimensions into eBay and you'll find a few sellers. Plastic spigot rings have a tendency to melt on front wheels.
My OZ wheels arrived with spigot rings to reduce the centre bore and new nuts ?

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Wheels that have bigger center bores, are always my Tip, because you can use small spacers (3 or 5 or 7mm) with hubcentric.
If you have wheels with the same bore than vehicles hub, you can just use bigger spacers with hubcentric, or small spacers without hubcentric, what is very bad…

Regards GRinder
 
Wheels that have bigger center bores, are always my Tip, because you can use small spacers (3 or 5 or 7mm) with hubcentric.
If you have wheels with the same bore than vehicles hub, you can just use bigger spacers with hubcentric, or small spacers without hubcentric, what is very bad…

Regards GRinder
Or just get wheels in the correct offset that don't require spacers.
 
Or just get wheels in the correct offset that don't require spacers.
You never get the correct offset (and correct center bore) for all wheels you like - and if, the wheel with less offset, is heavier than the wheel with more offset + spacer.
A middle-heavy wheel with offset 45 is 8,9 kg - same wheel offset 38 is 9,3 kg.
Spacer 7mm is 0,2 kg ....

Regards Grinder
 
18x8 et35 and heavy thibk they were 11kg if it bothers you 90% time for me I wouldn't notice too much I don't thibk
Nope it doesn't. It really looks good! Same with clothes and shoes. Wear what you like ;) It's the smiles that matter ?
 
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Hi Help Needed!
I need to know the Centre bore protrusion length of the hubs Front and Back ( they should be the same) This how far the centre bore comes out on the hub,
this is normally 8mm or 12mm. This is so I can fit a wheel adaptor.
Could any one who has their car or knows this measurement please oblige.
Thanks
 
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