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Audio Upgrade Video

39K views 154 replies 36 participants last post by  BigTont  
The original system did not impress at all the first few hours playing on it but after the door speakers loosened up I agree the system is pretty good for a cheap small Japanese car.

Anyway, I still installed an under seat sub to go slightly lower and slightly louder. The system got better but not massively. Will tweak how it's hooked up when it gets warmer outdoors and easier for me to fiddle with the car.
 
Yeah they didn't remove anything just switched out the front speakers. Will either have been coded out or something to do with the added audio control unit. I'll have to check this though
I'm very interested in how they connected the audio control unit.

Mainly because there are no line level signals anywhere. Out from the head unit and into the power amp/ESE/ANC unit it is balanced high level and then the output from that one drives the speakers. I would like to add a dsp or at least an EQ but it would need balanced high level output (not neccesarily high power output)
 
i suspect fitting is relatively straightforward
It's the XO points, TA, then tuning for your speakers and tastes where the EQ skills would be needed.


I am considering pairing this with the Focal Toyota Integration 165 series - components in front, then coax for rear fill.
These are quite efficient suggesting they are easily driven.

With a little sound deadening behind cones, and some dsp tinkering to eq and xo to 40hz, it has potential for those seeking a tighter sound for rock jazz etc, as opposed to seismic rattling stuff...

going to talk to my local fitters.
I have the Focal 165 front two way kit in my car now. I have a simpler Alpine under seat sub with no DSP. Will probably swap the rear speakers. Already damped the rear space behind them. But I need an EQ.

But since it's high level signals everywhere in the car, adding a dsp and keeping ANC and/or ESE will end up being three power amplifiers one after the other like this below. Which works fine but isn't optimal. If you remove ESE/ANC it's properly ok.

Image
 
The DSP/sub looks very tempting to minimize wiring and boxes under the seats :)

But cutting or splicing somewhere is unavoidable IMHO since I doubt any installer has adaptor cables for the GRY?
 
I'm suspecting the power amplifiers in the Alpine might be better than the ones in the Toyota ANC unit. So I'll probably test driving the speakers as above but also try with no ANC unit at all, driving the speakers directly from the Alpine unit. But my guess is I'll end up as connected above though.
 
Cutting the lower end from the door speakers will be very good to put less demand on the stability of the "enclosures" also.

If I had no sub it would probably be a good idea to use the rears to help especially at the lower end, the enclosures could be made to make two good bass speakers. But with the sub in the car I don't know if I want much sound at all coming from the rear. Maybe a tiny tiny bit of mids and highs to get some small touch of "air".



RTA?
 
RTA is real time analyser.
I have a calibrated USB measuring mic that I run assorted software on a pc with but I really always end up tuning by ear to my liking.

(I have a background in disco/PA and music systems/electronics before I went to software/IT. 100% off topic, but just two months ago I started making music doing new backing tracks remixing songs, using boppy bass lines and old school funk/disco beats ? https://youtube.com/channel/UCypavMBaB8MPjQYIN2GR9qg )
 
Good stuff. Above my experience and capability but I am keen to get going with REW/dirac etc, both for home hi fi and ICE.

Can. you recommend a mic and app for ios that i can take to PC to play with?

Will you place the sub/amp/dsp under drivers seat or passenger?
It'll be under my own bum ?

Sorry, don't know anything for ios.

Measuring a whole system in a normal room with any precision is not easy IMHO. The mic placements can be very sensitive and skew your results a lot.
 
2. Probably a matter of taste

3. Was very easy. Check youtube for removal of door panels and the video how to put the A-pillar covers back.

4. Quite easy but you need to take out the rear seat to get the side wall panels off.
 
There are only high level outputs from a power amplifier in the head unit. No low level outputs found on it so far. Even though its a power amp it only drives the (semi high impedance) inputs on the next electronic box (the ESE/ANC unit) that in itself has another set of power amps.


EDIT:
The Convenience pack is slightly different. It might have a digital output, not sure.