I reckon Toyota will make a big deal out of it but most tyre shops will have come across a sheared bolt before and as far as I'm aware they are fairly simple to drill out / rectify (happy to be corrected though as I'm no mechanic myself)

 

I assume you have, but go and check the remaining bolts, if it’s a defect it could have affected a batch, if it’s your detailior they could have over torqued / cross threaded multiple bolts.

To clarify I am not blaming anyone but safety has to come first.

Not checking because you trust someone and then a wheel coming off a 70mph isn’t going to end well. again I’m not saying you haven’t checked or a person is at fault. But if there is something wrong, you may be risking yourself or others lives

 

I assume you have, but go and check the remaining bolts, if it's a defect it could have affected a batch, if it's your detailior they could have over torqued / cross threaded multiple bolts.

To clarify I am not blaming anyone but safety has to come first.

Not checking because you trust someone and then a wheel coming off a 70mph isn't going to end well. again I'm not saying you haven't checked or a person is at fault. But if there is something wrong, you may be risking yourself or others lives

Will do tomorrow morning, before I take it to Toyota.

 

I had same happen when I overtightened a nut. I bought a replacement stud from Toyota for £5.50, took the wheel off and hammered the snapped stud out. Then spun the hub until a gap on the brake ducting lines up with the stud hole, put the new stud in and pull it tight by putting a wheel nut on, job done 20mins.

 

Thats a little worrying. How overtight did you take it?

I hope they aren't a weak point on the Yaris.

 

could you post a pic of the end of the stud? would like a look at where it snapped.

 

Here you go...

 

I removed and fitted my wheels at least 20 times now in ~3’000km, with different wheels and nuts and torqued them always with 110Nm.
Not a single issue so far. ??‍♂

 

That doesn't look like a defect in the stud to me. Did they use a correctly set torque wrench?

 

103Nm mixed up with ft/lbs ?

 

I've just been out to check all of the nuts, they all came loose without too much effort and none were cross threaded.

All torqued back up to 103nm without an issue.

 

Same thing happened on ours. Only tightened it up with a 10" brace

 

Part of me feels a little better if it has actually happened to others.

Maybe a bad batch of studs?

 

Now there’s no pressure on the thread I would expect that to be able to be unscrewed by hand out of the nut. If it won’t then maybe it’s got something jammed in the thread or it’s bottomed out?

 

if i had to bet, i would say toyota is not the problem

 

So to close this out,

Car went into the local dealership, Toyota took all the details and had no problems replacing under warranty.

Which makes me wonder, has this been happening to others...

 

I think it's probably cheaper to replace a stub than do a route cause analysis, argue with a client

 

I can't make it out fully but it looks like anti-seize/copper grease around the edges. Did anyone add any lube to that stud? If so one should note that the torque specs are dry. Adding lube will give more clamping force, ie over tighten the nut.

 

I cannot comment on that. It definitely wasn't me and I cannot imagine my detailer would.

 

I mustard mitt that I was surprised that the studs are aluminium, as 1) it's bound to have lower tensile strength than steel, and 2) differential corrosion is bound to be a longer term problem unless every other thing they touch is Al too.

 

Plus one to that.....

 

Never ever put any lube onto wheel bolts/nuts. Specified torqe is always for dry contact.
Oh, and I highly doubt GR studs are made of aluminium...

 

Well going to throw a grenade into this thread, this car had a persistent clicking noise coming from the front wheel, this was the fix from a specialist independent garage. Draw your own conclusions I have used copper slip/anti seize for almost 50 years.

 

I've used Copaslip for over 50 years, too - where appropriate, such as that mating face wheel/hub and on the back of brake pads, Not on studs though. Each to their own....

 

studs wont be aluminium as they wont last a long time

 

Nothing wrong with lube. Just know that it will be tighter than your torque wrench thinks.

 

Even if all this does is make sure people are careful and make sure tyre fitters, detailers, mechanics are aware of the correct torque settings then it may save someone else the hassle in the future, then my (short lived) pain is someone elses gain.

 

They are not aluminium, they are ferrous based, as a magnet is attracted to them. You never put lubricant on torqued threads unless the torque value specifies its been calculated that way, which is highly unlikely. Just ensure threads are clean, use a wire brush on old threads.
As these nuts don’t have tapered seat it’s possible to get them misaligned and damage the wheel as they are tightened, more so if done with impact wrench.

I’d put the failure down to user error.

 

why do they not write the wheel nuts torque in the manual, because it is such an important information.
that would really be useful.
also the workshops could write on every invoice to check the torque, when driving alloy wheels

 

It is in the manual.

Thread 'Wheel Nuts Torque - 103nm' https://gr-yaris.co.uk/forum/threads/wheel-nuts-torque-103nm.1551/

 

So to close this out,

Car went into the local dealership, Toyota took all the details and had no problems replacing under warranty.

Which makes me wonder, has this been happening to others...

No, the occurence would be documented and suppliers informed, process es checked(eol or PDI, dealer) , maybe will lead to a revised manual or larger warning stickers etc etc etc etc.halo cars are monitored for longer period(up to a year or more) from the start of production

Such small issues, are also taken care of from the distributors own "good will budget" or even the dealers own good will budget .