Toyota GR Yaris Forum banner
81 - 100 of 317 Posts
Looking at those prices, it's worth doing this yourself, it isn't difficult and can be done on your driveway with the aid of a trolley jack. Less than £100. And the satisfaction of doing it yourself.
Having taken out all of the arch liners on my last car to have A look at what was underneath and clean out any dirt (of which there was quite a bit) if you have a reasonable sized garage and the time it's wasn't a hard job. I'll be having a go at DIY
 
They do clear Dinitrol on cars.
We can coat in clear dinitrol or black - the black hardens and drys a lot quicker than the clear but the clear does eventually dry to a skin whilst tacky underneath to prevent flaking or chipping - we tend to use clear on new cars and jap imports.
We could definitely get it in for when it arrives though and works take around 2-3 days with drying times and our Extreme Stage is the full works at £460.00 +vat.
Many thanks
Chris
 
just posted this on another thread before I saw this one!

ACF50 is good stuff. I use it on the bikes all the time. I doubt it’s durable enough to last more than a few weeks over winter underside a car though. At the moment I’m contemplating using B&H dynax-UC on the underside of the Yaris. It’s a spray on clear wax that hardens but is also easy removed. I’ve never used it before but from what I’ve seen it best fits the bill between the heavy duty under seal stuff and the easy washed off oil based ACF50

has anyone got any experience of the Bilt and Hamber stuff? I‘ll continue to use acf50 in the engine bay as it won’t get washed off there
 
just posted this on another thread before I saw this one!

ACF50 is good stuff. I use it on the bikes all the time. I doubt it's durable enough to last more than a few weeks over winter underside a car though. At the moment I'm contemplating using B&H dynax-UC on the underside of the Yaris. It's a spray on clear wax that hardens but is also easy removed. I've never used it before but from what I've seen it best fits the bill between the heavy duty under seal stuff and the easy washed off oil based ACF50

has anyone got any experience of the Bilt and Hamber stuff? I'll continue to use acf50 in the engine bay as it won't get washed off there
I have only used Dinitrol which is a better version of the old wax oil. I have also purchased some ACF-50 but to be used in conjunction with another wax..
 
just posted this on another thread before I saw this one!

ACF50 is good stuff. I use it on the bikes all the time. I doubt it's durable enough to last more than a few weeks over winter underside a car though. At the moment I'm contemplating using B&H dynax-UC on the underside of the Yaris. It's a spray on clear wax that hardens but is also easy removed. I've never used it before but from what I've seen it best fits the bill between the heavy duty under seal stuff and the easy washed off oil based ACF50

has anyone got any experience of the Bilt and Hamber stuff? I'll continue to use acf50 in the engine bay as it won't get washed off there
I've been looking into this quite a bit, and agree with you that this looks like the ideal solution, I've used other Bilt Hamber stuff and it's good gear??
 
`Just starting to think about mine ... due June ... I have been trying not to !
Very useful information on here ... I asked the dealer and they knew nothing and said they could not arrange to have it done prior to new delivery because the car would be non-spec and it may have warranty implications ... ?
So I also will be doing this somewhere as close as possible to my dealer in Leeds ...
 
  • Haha
Reactions: BlueIn2Red
Anyone planning to use a compressor to apply acf-50 should watch these. The sort of noob mistake I'd make :)

Also, Don't think anyone has mentioned not to get this on your brakes, so don't get it on your brakes.

I've used it on many motorbikes, great stuff but deffo a yearly job.


 
Just spoken to the Dinitrol specialist doing mine and they had one in Jan. His words:

"I must admit we were surprised/disappointed to see absolutely no under body protection applied from factory on the GR we saw last month. Definitely a must have....especially with weather like we are experiencing at the moment."
 
Just spoken to the Dinitrol specialist doing mine and they had one in Jan. His words:

"I must admit we were surprised/disappointed to see absolutely no under body protection applied from factory on the GR we saw last month. Definitely a must have....especially with weather like we are experiencing at the moment."
Di
Just spoken to the Dinitrol specialist doing mine and they had one in Jan. His words:

"I must admit we were surprised/disappointed to see absolutely no under body protection applied from factory on the GR we saw last month. Definitely a must have....especially with weather like we are experiencing at the momento you know which product line they are using on your car.
(The number on the tin)?
Is it's clear not black.
Just spoken to the Dinitrol specialist doing mine and they had one in Jan. His words:

"I must admit we were surprised/disappointed to see absolutely no under body protection applied from factory on the GR we saw last month. Definitely a must have....especially with weather like we are experiencing at the moment."
do you know which product line they are using,
(the number on the tin)

it's great stuff, dinitrol
 
"I must admit we were surprised/disappointed to see absolutely no under body protection applied from factory on the GR we saw last month. Definitely a must have....especially with weather like we are experiencing at the moment."

This! Specialist Shop in Munich uses:
  • Dinol
  • Fertan
  • Terotex
  • Elaskon
  • Mike Sander's
 
Out of interest, what’s the justification for spending money on this? Presumably the bodywork is protected, even if it’s just the paint etc and cars tend not to rust like they used to and without under seal etc.

I’m not for one minute criticising anyone who is doing this and may well do it myself with a bit of evidence it’s required. Up for a bit of required preventative maintenance
 
hmmm, does the below cover the underbody ... probably not right ? everything underneath would be considered wear and tear. apart from chassis. IMHO

12 year anti-corrosion and perforation warranty*
12 year unlimited mileage cover that protects against rust perforation affecting sheet metal body panels as a result of a manufacturing fault. This warranty can also be transferred to any future owner throughout the 12 year period.
 
Out of interest, what's the justification for spending money on this? Presumably the bodywork is protected, even if it's just the paint etc and cars tend not to rust like they used to and without under seal etc.

I'm not for one minute criticising anyone who is doing this and may well do it myself with a bit of evidence it's required. Up for a bit of required preventative maintenance
Because it has no protection like every other car I've ever known for a decade or more
 
81 - 100 of 317 Posts