[rigster2]

great thread, keen to get mine due mid March and straight in for some protection.

Has anyone noticed rubber bungs missing in the floor pan or sill area? I remember a page a while back about this but not on this forum.?

Thanks! Matt

 

[Gr-steve]

Out of interest, what's the justification for spending money on this? Presumably the bodywork is protected, even if it's just the paint etc and cars tend not to rust like they used to and without under seal etc.

I'm not for one minute criticising anyone who is doing this and may well do it myself with a bit of evidence it's required. Up for a bit of required preventative maintenance

For me personally, as I am planning to keep my car for the duration.
It's m

 

[TreborGR]

Hi. Great thread, just to add my experience of Bilt Hamber..
I've used Dynax UC, Dynax UB and Dynax S50 on a range of my work machinery and work trucks. Also the rust hardener/converter products, though not neccessary for the GRY hopefully!
Dynax UC (clear) is pretty good to spray everywhere tbh, avoiding brakes/tyres etc. obviously. But certainly needs topping up, maybe twice a year. The cans are quality and application is not messy. It's only just 'tacky' once gone off. I'd say 2 x cans would do all arches and rear suspension area.
Dynax UB is black and slightly thicker than UC. Good on the actual rails, subframe and sills, though would avoid anything more mechanical that may need working on at some point. Again using the can it's a really accurate application and you can build up in layers where a thicker coverage is needed. To be safe I would say a light touch up once a year would be prudent. Probably go for 3 x cans.
Dynax S50 - very tacky brown spray wax for cavities only. I haven't got my car yet so not sure if this is applicable, but more than likely so somewhere.
With these products it is important to dial down the pressure somewhat (if you can) when using a pressure washer, as it can be pushed about/washed off.

I am a fan of these tacky wax products and it's clear what's going on, no moisture building up under sealed surfaces etc. if it's got wax on it, it's protected!
But it would be money well spent getting a specialist to do a proper job I'm sure.
Other products are available, just my experience of the BH stuff!

 

[Chris64]

That's really helpful @TreborGR - Having just bought a new pressure washer I was thinking about whether it would simply blast off these treatments.

And interesting to hear you suggest the Dynax UC would probably need topping up - I wasn't sure if that would be the case or not.

The S50 wax might be good under the arch covers, into the sills etc?

Thanks!

 

[TreborGR]

That's really helpful @TreborGR - Having just bought a new pressure washer I was thinking about whether it would simply blast off these treatments.

And interesting to hear you suggest the Dynax UC would probably need topping up - I wasn't sure if that would be the case or not.

The S50 wax might be good under the arch covers, into the sills etc?

Thanks!

I would like to think the arch covers do a good job keeping the weather out. Peel them back on my 21 year old amazon, and it's like new behind there, but just depends.
But yep, the S50 can go anywhere really, that it won't be seen and wont get in anyone's way. Often the rails (end to end hollow section steel) have drainage holes that can also let moisture inside obviously, getting the long lance and spraying S50 in there is a must.

 

[Gr-steve]

For me personally, as I am planning to keep my car for the duration.
It's m

Lol, I didn't finish!?‍♂

Realy for me, it's just that I don't want the suspension components to turn all brown/orange with surface rust in a few years, it's tatty looking as the rest of the car will be mint.

I am sure the quality of the metal used for the floor and sills is very good, and I can some some amount of cavity wax injected in various ares from the factory.

it would be a personal thing for everyone really.

But I'm planning on keeping mine, if other owners aren't planning on keeping their car more than a few years, then I can see why they would not bother with protection.

 

[TakumiF]

Because it has no protection like every other car I've ever known for a decade or more

Is this unique about GRY what about other cars in the Toyota range like a regular Yaris or Land cruiser ?

 

[DeanoC]

Is this unique about GRY what about other cars in the Toyota range like a regular Yaris or Land cruiser ?

Unique to the GR. It like an old 90s import

 

[M140i]

Working for Toyota I would like to add an observation here. That is that the underside of the GR Yaris looks no different to the underside of the Corolla I have. There is lots of PVC seam sealant being used and the all the body panels are dipped to protect against corrosion. Obviously anything can be protected further if the individuals so choose but it is no different to any other model they produce.

 

[Ellerslie]

Working for Toyota I would like to add an observation here. That is that the underside of the GR Yaris looks no different to the underside of the Corolla I have. There is lots of PVC seam sealant being used and the all the body panels are dipped to protect against corrosion. Obviously anything can be protected further if the individuals so choose but it is no different to any other model they produce.

And this is what I would like to understand for the purposes of cost vs risk.

I also plan to keep the car for 5 years plus so an happy to go for it if it's really needed.

I don't see loads of rusty 7 year old Toyotas out there though. Or 10 year old plus for that matter. They are notoriously robust cars are they not?

Feels like it could be fixing a problem that isn't there but happy to shown that it deffo is a problem for sure as I'd rather get something done about it if it is.

 

[Els]

Working for Toyota I would like to add an observation here. That is that the underside of the GR Yaris looks no different to the underside of the Corolla I have. There is lots of PVC seam sealant being used and the all the body panels are dipped to protect against corrosion. Obviously anything can be protected further if the individuals so choose but it is no different to any other model they produce.

Thanks for that Toyota knowledge.

"No different" - does that apply to all black painted pressed steel components: suspension, chassis etc?
"Dipped" as in painted or galvanized?

 

[M140i]

The steel panels are painted (actually submerged) in a corrosion resistance coating. They are not galvanised.

 

[M140i]

its worth adding. The black suspension components are just painted and these will corrode.

 

[TakumiF]

I would be very surprised and disappointed if the GRY did not have the same protection as other toyotas in the range. I am not going to expect the same as say a Land Cruiser (not sure if thats any different anyway).
I will give it a quick diy ACF50 like others here, but i would like to know if I need to be extra anal about it. cause I rather not be anal

 

[DeanoC]

One thing I noticed under the demo car was how little of the arches are covered by liners.

 

[M140i]

it's not a GR Yaris but gives you an idea of the lengths they go to make sure it doesn't corrode.

 

[@slategrey6601]

I would be very surprised and disappointed if the GRY did not have the same protection as other toyotas in the range. I am not going to expect the same as say a Land Cruiser (not sure if thats any different anyway).
I will give it a quick diy ACF50 like others here, but i would like to know if I need to be extra anal about it. cause I rather not be anal

I think it really depends where you live and drive the car. Here in the south of Germany you find loads of salt on the streets during wintertime. Especially in the mountains where I mainly drive the car. Additional protection of the underbody and the chassis parts is indispensable here if you plan to drive the car longer.

 

[MaxP]

It's worth it.

As said before my wishbones (only painted) + some bolts already startet to show corrosion/ rust in certain areas. Drove the car for 2 months, 2500 miles.

Yes, there will be no holes in the car in 10 years. But i can assure you it wont look good underneath.
this is not a problem that only affects toyota products of course.

 

[Greg]

That's why I'm getting mine done as soon as I get the car. CSK are doing their top Dinitrol treatment for £460 + vat. I'll never forget my Focus RS 2017, 5000 mile car, which was bad underneath

 

[TakumiF]

That's why I'm getting mine done as soon as I get the car. CSK are doing their top Dinitrol treatment for £460 + vat. I'll never forget my Focus RS 2017, 5000 mile car, which was bad underneath

hmm just looked https://www.cskautomotive.co.uk/the-rust-prevention-centre/
surely only stage 1 is required on a new car. so perhaps only £180.00. as i am local too i am tempted.

but i dont want that black treacle looking stuff.