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Thanks for the inputs! My GRY won’t even see and feel dirt road. Probably uneven or harsh pavement from road works etc small pebbles here and there but that’s probably about it. Purely daily drive on street setup. Been running hubcentric spacers (good quality ones - project kics / eibach) for years without any issues. It’s just the little offset that I want since I’m sticking with the BBS wheels. I plan same size front and rear to keep some symmetry. I’ve done, 5/10/15/20 spacers depending on the wheel and tire setup ? All good (y)
 
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I have a Mini GP2. It is for sale. When it is sold, I am going to change the wheels and put off the spacers. E.g. 8.5x18, 35 offset. It is not the same like with 20mm spacers, but steeet legal in Switzerland.
 
The scrub radius change with a 15-20mm spacer is not going to be some monumental change which you notice a whole lot on the road or track. McPherson setups usually have a negative setup but that's a safety consideration as it acts similarly to neg toe by making the wheels want to find the straight ahead. So handy if you hit water on one side or have a puncture.

A bit more positive will add weight to the steering, you will have more bump steer when threshold braking and torque steer can be more prevalent in very powerful fwd cars.

There are just so many variables though. Fit tyres with stiffer sidewalls and you'll get more of a change than 10mm spacers.

There are also the benefits, track and roll centre improvements are good.

Have a think about how much this can change on stock cars. They are always offering different wheel sets as options or on various models with more poke
 
A 7mm spacer is a good option for those not wanting too greater impact on handling but wanting to improve the visual appearance. The H&R 7mm spacer can be fitted without changing wheel studs I believe? They tell me its also the spacer they haver fitted on the vehicle photographed for their lowering springs

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Have a think about how much this can change on stock cars. They are always offering different wheel sets as options or on various models with more poke
E.g. BMW are different because they use a double pivot, there is no straightforward king pin or scrub radius.

Usually more poke on factort wheel options is done with very little et change and by using wider larger wheels but even so, while it looks better, it does not always drive better. Because cars are developed on one set-up, than marketing adds their bling wheels and take a big surcharge. BMW has done more work lately on developing each optional chassi / wheel variant and it shows (before there used to one configuration that was best).

End of day, changing ET changes the intended (well engineered) handling of the GRY and I personally would never put (20mm :eek:) spacers on this car (on the front). The GRY has lots of space for wider rims and that would be my recommendation if one wants to improve looks/stance (within reason), maybe with a small et change to 40 or so. 20mm spacer = et25 on stick rim and that has my engineering alarm bell ringing...

But to each their own, I just want to inform there may be consequences one perhaps did not consider before.
 
E.g. BMW are different because they use a double pivot, there is no straightforward king pin or scrub radius.

Usually more poke on factort wheel options is done with very little et change and by using wider larger wheels but even so, while it looks better, it does not always drive better. Because cars are developed on one set-up, than marketing adds their bling wheels and take a big surcharge. BMW has done more work lately on developing each optional chassi / wheel variant and it shows (before there used to one configuration that was best).

End of day, changing ET changes the intended (well engineered) handling of the GRY and I personally would never put (20mm :eek:) spacers on this car (on the front). The GRY has lots of space for wider rims and that would be my recommendation if one wants to improve looks/stance (within reason), maybe with a small et change to 40 or so. 20mm spacer = et25 on stick rim and that has my engineering alarm bell ringing...

But to each their own, I just want to inform there may be consequences one perhaps did not consider before.
I hear you. I've run spacers once in my life on a Porsche which were OEM items. I just don't like the idea.

My point was, like most things, you can read waaaay too much into it. The change would be so small either positive or negative in most cases and for most drivers
 
Likely that the static scrub radius at normal ride height will be in the range -4mm to -10mm as the front is a driven axle.
the worst scenario is adding spacers that neutralise (approx no scrub radius) this and the tyre behaviour becomes irratic due to inconsistent load.
going to positive scrub can be beneficial for track IMO but I’d preferably stick to OEM settings on the roads unless vanity wins out! ?
 
I've written it elsewhere but I'll add it here to, some real world experience on the subject. I have changed ET a lot on previous BMW M-cars that I've had. On my M2 I added 20mm spacers in the front with very good results. I mainly used it with wider wheels which needed 20mm spacers to get back to stock ET. But I also ran stock width wheels during winter with the ET lowered 20mm with these spacers on the car which worked without any tramlining added or any other downside.

Now on to GRY. With Michelin CUP2 Connect in stock size 225/40-18 on the original 8x18 ET45 BBS and these same tyres on after market 8x18 ET35 (that also are much heavier) I got:

- A clear increase of tramlining
- Heavier steering, especially noticeable around center for smaller inputs

Late edit: A lot might also have to do with the rims that are crazy heavy ?
 
I hear you. I've run spacers once in my life on a Porsche which were OEM items. I just don't like the idea.

My point was, like most things, you can read waaaay too much into it. The change would be so small either positive or negative in most cases and for most drivers
I can't speak of GRY experience, but on other McPherson cars I definitely notice the difference, 5mm I notice already, 10mm it gets annoying, 20mm is dead awful. But this is in rutted road country Sweden, not noticeable perhaps in Germany, that is until you hit that bad road rut where you didn't expect it... I suppose most people don't even realise why they need to wrestle the wheel sometimes.

In the context of people dismissing cars because alledged bad steering feel, I would say it is relevant...
 
8,5x18, 9x18 or 9,5x18 with wider tires but nearly same offset (about ET 40-45) is much better to drive and gives you more feedback than 8x18 with standard tire size and more offset (like ET 30-35) or spacers.
8,5x - 9x - or 9,5x18 with even 255/35R18 and OFFSET 40 fits perfect in wheel well, even with front camber -3°...enough space to spring-leg plate...

Regards GRinder
 
For those looking for a pair of 15mm hubcentric wheelspacer with 10 long studs included (hub bore 60.1, PCD 5x114, stud bolts 12x1.5) this should be the part number. (S90-6-15-034) I'm sticking with Eibach spacers since I'll be installing Eibach ProKit springs also. This comes from the Toyota Camry/Lexus IS with the exact specs for the Toyota GR Yaris (y)
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