Thinking this Kicker Key 4-channel amp with DSP might be a good solution for GR sound upgrade:

Kicker KEY200.4 Amp 4 Channel Full Range Car Smart Amplifier & DSP 4x50w (carelectronicsnottingham.co.uk)

Any one tried fitting one yet?

 

Вот: https://www.audison.eu/support/software-and-firmware/

Он находится в разделе «Прима» для F8.9bit.
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I already installed AUDISON PRIMA 4.9 + Hertz CP-165L components.



What is the power of Subwoofer amplifier i need in order to do no harm hybrid system?

Thank you in advance.

Sorry for my English

 

Just picked my car up from having the install done, basically the same feedback as others. I'm getting the fake intake amplified and the weird EQ settings which I need to tweak, but I can do that myself I think. I find the Alpine PWD-X5 app extremely clunky really, but once I've got the EQ sorted, it should be OK. I guess at some point I'll rewire to be after the Toyota Amp

 

It sounds super under the seat after a thorough tweaking of it's EQ and crossovers. The car's head unit audio signal cuts the low bass a bit for example which has to be counter measured with the sub's built in eq

 

Just following up on this now. The Installer I've spoken to suggests the sub in the boot, rather than under seats. Any views on this?

 

Under seat is just fine - in fact is better for time alignment with F comps.

 

Thanks man, I was thinking of fitting the speakers myself and getting the amp fitted by someone else, but instead I'm going to do it all with the installer!

 

So I've managed to find a PWD-X5, and along with that I've bought the Focal IC+IS 165s. I was going to ask the supplier to fit it, unfortunately their prices are absolutely ridiculous (more than the cost of all the equipment combined!). When it comes to the PWD-X5 installation, has anyone taking photos/videos of the installation, is it true plug and play or do it require splicing into the loom and soldering?

Also, how much sound deadening will I be need for the front doors and rear quarters?

 

There is some splicing and I would also say that using door sound deadening and someone who can EQ the DSP, makes all the difference to the resultant sound in the GR.

I have been living with mine for a few months now, so it is well broken in and sounding very good compared to stock.

TBH the sub in itself is not my cup of tea - it 'honks' a bit in the 60Hz mid bass range. However with the X5 app, it is easy to (and preferable) to wind back level on the sub in favour of F door component L/R sounds bands. It actually starts too get quite punchy then - and the door deadening then really comes into play. The app is also very good and straightforward interface for time alignments and imaging.

Where it is at its best imo is in how well it all holds together as you raise the volume levels, and without breaking up or clipping. This is good across all genres too.

So I would say get a good install, and get someone who can do first pass eq for you to then go on and tweak.

I am also impressed with the rear Coax Focals, again above the Sub.

Good upgrade imo

 

46+ but i'm running through aftermarket amps.

What setup are you running?

 

Hi
if you like to disconnect the Microphone instead of use the Dongle, remove to Pin MC1+MC1- MC2+ MC2- at the Ampifier Unit. This works for Standard and circuit unit.

 

Hi
if you like to disconnect the Microphone instead of use the Dongle, remove to Pin MC1+MC1- MC2+ MC2- at the Ampifier Unit. This works for Standard and circuit unit.

View attachment 18956

Just for my information, why would you disconnect the microphones and use a dongle?
These microphones are normally tuned to suit the vehicle.
Can i ask you where you got this document so i can look up some other things?

 

Here you go: https://www.audison.eu/support/software-and-firmware/

It's under 'Prima' for the F8.9bit.

That's for Aunison not Alpine.

Not sure folks fixations with FW upgrades, especially on a new product like the Alpine

 

Apologies, misread… long day!

I agree though. For devices that don't connect to the internet, firmware updates are less of an issue. If it works, leave it be

 

One thing I tried the other day on my standard CiP setup was to play music at a fixed level (and speed), then turn on "Volume Loudness/Leveliser" (or whatever it is called) and set at highest, but then immediately decrease volume by 5 (say). Subjectively what I found was that the sounds felt a bit richer & bassier and I felt it was not just down to it possibly being a higher volume (my lame, decrease by 5, attempt) - could an equaliser curve be getting applied by this function?

Like I say, completely subjective on my part, but for now I will use the speed sensitive loudness at max.
Incidentally, what sort of volumes do people use on the standard setup, I range from low to 20 to even 35 (speed/noise dependent), has anybody pushed it higher?

 

I read in the manual somewhere that the speed sensing adaption both alters volume and eq.

 

I quite like these audio threads. Every time I go out in my car and use Spotify I am always expecting it to sound crap but am always pleasantly surprised as it sounds pretty good to my ears. These threads convince me the system is awful until I listen to it again

 

Is anyone offering professional upgrades so you don't have to do a johhny freestyle upgrade ?

 

There's quite a few professional installs knocking around now. They're all quite different though, so I'm not sure anyone is offering a 'kit' yet!

 

dears,
finally my garage is going to install the ALPINE DSP in my car
they are suggesting me not to substitute speakers now.....

this kind of expense may be done also in some months if the result is not what i want.

i have placed OFF to ANC & SE, they are not active now in my car.

please confirm me if i have correctly understood.
1. if i do not need ANC / ESE anymore i can remove the toyota amplifier under the right seat
2. if i want to be able to use ANC i must install the ALPINE in the middle between toyota head unit and toyota amplifier, before toyota amplifier.
Are these 2 points corret ??
what is your suggestion? better 1 or 2?
and if i use 2) the toyoya amplifier may modify the signals sent by ALpine dsp to the speakers?

thx a lot for supply
unfortunately i am not skilled with these things

Ciao and grazie

 

Im not sure how you could use the noise cancelling with upgraded speakers and/or the DSP. The DSP will only be able to treat the noise cancelling in the same way it treats music, which would mean the noise cancelling would also be impacted by your volume control.

The noise cancelling is also quite a complex piece of technology as the speakers need to play the exact opposite frequency at the correct volume to achieve the desired effect. Changing the speakers is likely to change the volume and/or frequency of the noise cancelling which would then make it sound odd.

 

Did some measurements with a mic today. It confirmed what I was thinking from listening, that the Focal 165 Toyota kit (door woofers and A-pillar tweeters) mounted in the GRY have a dip in the lower midrange. It was a tiny bit higher up in frequency than I expected though, the quite severe dip ranged from 500 to 600 Hz approximately. So will tweak EQ and see how it goes.

The rear speakers are still turned off. I want to thoroughly do the fronts first. Then I'll just add a minor fill from the rear.

 

Agree. If you change to other speakers it's an absolute must to install a proper EQ. Without a multi band / parametric EQ you'll get a very strange midrange.

NOTE: Above is for the non JBL system! If you have the Convinience Pack it's supposedly different with a low level output that you can use. Haven't seen a JBL fitted car myself though.

 

Does anyone know if there are any specs of the sound system available, both for the standard system and for the convenience pack cars?

I could try to find some, what would you like to know? Or is this already covered somewhere else?

 

Nothing too detailed, just the sort of stuff that would be covered in sales literature if they were for sale as systems.

In all honesty, I don't think the specs would be that useful in the real world. Magnus has done some quite detailed investigation in to the stock system and I can only echo his findings.

It appears that Toyota have been very clever with the stock system by using software to get the very most out of the (pretty poor) stock speakers. As a result, the stock speakers are likely to perform way better than their specs would indicate in a real world scenario.

The aftermarket world essentially needs to undo this trickery in order for 'good' speakers to work well with the OEM head unit. As a result, I would say that it's almost mandatory to have some kind of signal processor if you wish to upgrade the sound and keep the OEM head unit.

 

This is the external DSP EQ frequency response I created that rectifies the head units signal back to a bit more flat.

 

This is the frequency response output from the head unit when its tone controls are set to their middle settings to be exactly "flat". So installing other speakers without adding an EQ to rectify this response back to somewhat more flat is not going to sound very good, at least not the peaky mid range around 1kHz

There is no loudness function in the head unit volume control. This frequency response is at all volume control settings. Bluetooth input was used for the measurements.

I tweaked the Alpine under seat sub DSP EQ to rectify the above frequency response somewhat. This is my starting point for the Focal speaker kit in the car now. It took some heavy tweaking of the Alpjne DSP EQ....

 

dears,
i have found luckily a used alpine 4+1 dsp PWD-X5 on amz.de

i have asked to my car-stereo garage to install it with new speakers and he proposed me to work this way:
1.) just install the alpine in the "undercover" of the baggage (doing a hole near the grill and placing at the right side (passanger) near the battery (for better presence of the low frequencies) AND not to change the speakers
2.) after 1 year (more or less) when the OEM paper speaker will be very used to substitute the speakers with higher quality ones
he proposed me this 1.) approach in order to reduce time and money involved

do you thinks that this 1.) could be a valid temporary improvement ??
what do you think about the alpine in the baggage boot (he told me it will be unvisible without loss of space)
the wires will be suffiicient?
the bt will work ??

do someone have instructions or videos about HOW TO INSTALL alpine with yaris GR (not JBL) system ???

thx a lot and sorry for all these questions....

 

dears,
i have found luckily a used alpine 4+1 dsp PWD-X5 on amz.de

i have asked to my car-stereo garage to install it with new speakers and he proposed me to work this way:
1.) just install the alpine in the "undercover" of the baggage (doing a hole near the grill and placing at the right side (passanger) near the battery (for better presence of the low frequencies) AND not to change the speakers
2.) after 1 year (more or less) when the OEM paper speaker will be very used to substitute the speakers with higher quality ones
he proposed me this 1.) approach in order to reduce time and money involved

do you thinks that this 1.) could be a valid temporary improvement ??
what do you think about the alpine in the baggage boot (he told me it will be unvisible without loss of space)
the wires will be suffiicient?
the bt will work ??

do someone have instructions or videos about HOW TO INSTALL alpine with yaris GR (not JBL) system ???

thx a lot and sorry for all these questions....

View attachment 15558

If you want to remove ANC and ESE it's pretty easy. Remove the ANC/ESE unit from under the right seat. And instead connect the PWD-X5 to the cable connector. Connect like this: "from head unit" goes to the inputs in the sub. "to speaker" goes to the outputs (the thicker wires) from the sub.

The cable that comes with the Alpine sub is veeery long so you can place it anywhere really. I have it under my seat.

 

I've put the videos in their own thread: https://gr-yaris.co.uk/forum/threads/diy-stereo-upgrade-all-speakers-amplifier.3523/

 

I did a DIY stereo install this weekend consisting of new components up front, coaxials in the rear and a DSP/amplifier under the drivers seat. Took the high level inputs from the feed going in to the amp under the drivers seat (passenger seat in LHD cars).

I filmed the install so will upload the video once it’s edited.

 

I did a DIY stereo install this weekend consisting of new components up front, coaxials in the rear and a DSP/amplifier under the drivers seat. Took the high level inputs from the feed going in to the amp under the drivers seat (passenger seat in LHD cars).

How does it sound?

 

There are only high level outputs from a power amplifier in the head unit. No low level outputs found on it so far. Even though its a power amp it only drives the (semi high impedance) inputs on the next electronic box (the ESE/ANC unit) that in itself has another set of power amps.


EDIT:
The Convenience pack is slightly different. It might have a digital output, not sure.

 

I don't want to use my phone as main music source, only for android auto.
My desire is to play music from some kind of storage (usb stick, ssd), included hi-res flac files, at first priority, and then switch to the oem audio when needed.
My thoughts are about putting a "device" between the head unit and the equalizer/amplifier, grabbing low level audio signals from HU. For what I can find, It should be a DSP with digital input, but only few of them have a built-in usb port, and only the audison bit Play HD has an internal ssd, correct?
But, it seems that this Audison bit play doesn't have the resume feature, and it's really annoyng.
I'm a bit confused, can you help me to find something?
I don't mind if I lose ANC and ESE.

 

I had a corsa around year 2000. I was commuting 4 hours a day. I changed every speaker, put an amazing head unit in and amp and sub woofer in the boot. Even used sound proof material around the speakers. It sounded amazing but standard car audio was dreadful back then. I think things have moved on and what can be achieved with upgrades is marginal especially when you don't have pre outs to tap off.