I did a DIY stereo install this weekend consisting of new components up front, coaxials in the rear and a DSP/amplifier under the drivers seat. Took the high level inputs from the feed going in to the amp under the drivers seat (passenger seat in LHD cars).

I filmed the install so will upload the video once it’s edited.

 

I did a DIY stereo install this weekend consisting of new components up front, coaxials in the rear and a DSP/amplifier under the drivers seat. Took the high level inputs from the feed going in to the amp under the drivers seat (passenger seat in LHD cars).

I filmed the install so will upload the video once it's edited.

thanks so much! That will be really helpful as I'm thinking of doing the same.

 

I don't like the flock/suede look on the A pillars. A sub taking up valuable boot space is ridiculous. Under the seat or under the boot floor would be a far better location.

I've pondered whether it needs more as I did a big install in my previous car. I think the speakers are actually very good. Maybe it could use an amped sub to give a bit more depth, but I'm still wondering whether it needs it two months after getting my car.

 

Apparently the is enough space under the seat ?

 

Omg. Weight has to go out and not in. An absolute no from me.

 

I agree,that`s why i`m going on an ice diet.

 

I took my head unit out. A pretty easy job by all accounts - just four bolts. Here's a pic of the rear. Nothing that exciting really. I think you'd be better tapping the signal from the box under the front seat rather than from behind the head unit.

I had heard on the grapevine that the GR had RCA Pre-outs on the head unit. Alas, it was lies! ?

 

Can now highly recommend Huets in Shoreham. The install/build is fantastic and the sound is unreal

Went with the JL Audio 10" Micro sub in the end and they've added a QR cradle so you can remove the box for track days/shopping etc in seconds.

Everything else is hidden and comes in at under 3.5 KG.

 

I quite like these audio threads. Every time I go out in my car and use Spotify I am always expecting it to sound crap but am always pleasantly surprised as it sounds pretty good to my ears. These threads convince me the system is awful until I listen to it again

 

Is his A pillar covered in suede ? looks great . Wonder how its sounds ? and what it costs ?

 

Same here
Although an under seat sub would help avoid robbing space from the cargo area

 

I have mine booked in with a car audio specialist beginning of next month for a full, lightweight JL Audio install. Will update the thread with build list and cost later in the week ??

 

Really interested to hear about your build. Am still thinking as per OP video- upgraded front Mille legends components, unpluggable slimline JL audio sub, with all in one DSP/amp and full EQ/TA etc, plus full front door sound deadening.

I am looking at something where OEM can easily be reinstated.

 

I've put the videos in their own thread: https://gr-yaris.co.uk/forum/threads/diy-stereo-upgrade-all-speakers-amplifier.3523/

 

This is the frequency response output from the head unit when its tone controls are set to their middle settings to be exactly "flat". So installing other speakers without adding an EQ to rectify this response back to somewhat more flat is not going to sound very good, at least not the peaky mid range around 1kHz

There is no loudness function in the head unit volume control. This frequency response is at all volume control settings. Bluetooth input was used for the measurements.

I tweaked the Alpine under seat sub DSP EQ to rectify the above frequency response somewhat. This is my starting point for the Focal speaker kit in the car now. It took some heavy tweaking of the Alpjne DSP EQ....

 

Did some measurements with a mic today. It confirmed what I was thinking from listening, that the Focal 165 Toyota kit (door woofers and A-pillar tweeters) mounted in the GRY have a dip in the lower midrange. It was a tiny bit higher up in frequency than I expected though, the quite severe dip ranged from 500 to 600 Hz approximately. So will tweak EQ and see how it goes.

The rear speakers are still turned off. I want to thoroughly do the fronts first. Then I'll just add a minor fill from the rear.

 

The original system did not impress at all the first few hours playing on it but after the door speakers loosened up I agree the system is pretty good for a cheap small Japanese car.

Anyway, I still installed an under seat sub to go slightly lower and slightly louder. The system got better but not massively. Will tweak how it's hooked up when it gets warmer outdoors and easier for me to fiddle with the car.

 

Here we go then.....

https://www.fourcaraudio.co.uk/brands/audiocontrol/factory-system-upgrade/audiocontrol-lc2i-pro
https://www.jlaudio.com/collections...car-audio-speakers/products/c2-650x-car-audio-speakers-c2-coaxial-systems-99618
https://www.jlaudio.com/products/rd400-4-car-audio-rd-amplifiers-98621

https://www.jlaudio.com/products/cp108lg-w3v3-car-audio-microsub-subwoofer-systems-93133

Will be replacing the existing plastic speaker mounts with custom MDF baffles and installing Dynamat sound deadening around and behind the speaker location to improve efficiency and increase mid bass performance.

May run with a slightly larger sub (10") but will be swapping out on collection to see which i prefer.
Don't have the total weight numbers but its a very light install throughout.

 

Where are you getting all this done?

I notice you are in West Sussex, I'm in Brighton and looking for a good installer fairly local for when my car arrives in August.

 

A tip, if you want to keep the car's noise cancelling and an installer wants to connect your sub, DSP or any power amp by splicing/tapping/connecting to the speaker wires in the car, I'd walk away and go elsewhere.

 

It helps quite a bit lowering the level of the engine/exhaust bass note on lower rpms (under 2200rpm)

 

I can confirm there is no RCA out on the back of the factory head unit
That is almost unheard of these days with any factory unit from any manufacturer

The head unit is super easy to remove just snap out a few plastic pieces and then 4 x 10mm bolts

 

I can confirm there is no RCA out on the back of the factory head unit
That is almost unheard of these days with any factory unit from any manufacturer

The head unit is super easy to remove just snap out a few plastic pieces and then 4 x 10mm bolts

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dear
@triumph202
@MagnusT
thx so much for support

i have found a used amz german alpine DSP
i think i will add the 2 pair of focal plug and play speakers

questions:
1. is the installation of alpine DSP difficult ?
2. do you think the front speaker substitution maybe sufficient of better to change them all ?
3. do you think that the operation to substitute front speakers id difficult ?
4. do you think that the operation to substitute rear speakers id difficult ?

thx so much in advance

just awaiting quote from my local ice dealer to supply and fit the very same. torn between just do the fronts vs all 4 speakers, and seeing what the DSP can do.

 

This is the external DSP EQ frequency response I created that rectifies the head units signal back to a bit more flat.

 

Agree. If you change to other speakers it's an absolute must to install a proper EQ. Without a multi band / parametric EQ you'll get a very strange midrange.

NOTE: Above is for the non JBL system! If you have the Convinience Pack it's supposedly different with a low level output that you can use. Haven't seen a JBL fitted car myself though.

 

Yes to the 1/4 in the tank. But a clear no to mrs .... I won't take her with me at all, because firstly of the extra weight and secondly, she can never lift her feet and scratches the entrances )

 

i suspect fitting is relatively straightforward
It's the XO points, TA, then tuning for your speakers and tastes where the EQ skills would be needed.

I am considering pairing this with the Focal Toyota Integration 165 series - components in front, then coax for rear fill.
These are quite efficient suggesting they are easily driven.

With a little sound deadening behind cones, and some dsp tinkering to eq and xo to 40hz, it has potential for those seeking a tighter sound for rock jazz etc, as opposed to seismic rattling stuff...

going to talk to my local fitters.

I have the Focal 165 front two way kit in my car now. I have a simpler Alpine under seat sub with no DSP. Will probably swap the rear speakers. Already damped the rear space behind them. But I need an EQ.

But since it's high level signals everywhere in the car, adding a dsp and keeping ANC and/or ESE will end up being three power amplifiers one after the other like this below. Which works fine but isn't optimal. If you remove ESE/ANC it's properly ok.

 

I have the Focal 165 front two way kit in my car now. I have a simpler Alpine under seat sub with no DSP. Will probably swap the rear speakers. Already damped the rear space behind them. But I need an EQ.

But since it's high level signals everywhere in the car, adding a dsp and keeping ANC and/or ESE will end up being three power amplifiers one after the other like this below. Which works fine but isn't optimal. If you remove ESE/ANC it's properly ok.

View attachment 12723

I have the Focal 165 front two way kit in my car now. I have a simpler Alpine under seat sub with no DSP. Will probably swap the rear speakers. Already damped the rear space behind them. But I need an EQ.

But since it's high level signals everywhere in the car, adding a dsp and keeping ANC and/or ESE will end up being three power amplifiers one after the other like this below. Which works fine but isn't optimal. If you remove ESE/ANC it's properly ok.

View attachment 12723

Right on the money there Magnus. The appeal of dsp amp all-in-one caught my attention.

The other option is the focal ibus 2:1 which you can get with specific Toyota integration kit. But then you'd have to add something like a minidsp abs get into REW etc.

I am defiantly not into splicing into the wiring and do want it to be reversible.

my local ICE specialist are Focal and Alpine dealers, so I will be paying them a visit.

 

I'm suspecting the power amplifiers in the Alpine might be better than the ones in the Toyota ANC unit. So I'll probably test driving the speakers as above but also try with no ANC unit at all, driving the speakers directly from the Alpine unit. But my guess is I'll end up as connected above though.

 

Maybe the rear is visible somewhere in this video

 

2. Probably a matter of taste

3. Was very easy. Check youtube for removal of door panels and the video how to put the A-pillar covers back.

4. Quite easy but you need to take out the rear seat to get the side wall panels off.

 

There are only high level outputs from a power amplifier in the head unit. No low level outputs found on it so far. Even though its a power amp it only drives the (semi high impedance) inputs on the next electronic box (the ESE/ANC unit) that in itself has another set of power amps.


EDIT:
The Convenience pack is slightly different. It might have a digital output, not sure.

 

So I've managed to find a PWD-X5, and along with that I've bought the Focal IC+IS 165s. I was going to ask the supplier to fit it, unfortunately their prices are absolutely ridiculous (more than the cost of all the equipment combined!). When it comes to the PWD-X5 installation, has anyone taking photos/videos of the installation, is it true plug and play or do it require splicing into the loom and soldering?

Also, how much sound deadening will I be need for the front doors and rear quarters?

 

There is some splicing and I would also say that using door sound deadening and someone who can EQ the DSP, makes all the difference to the resultant sound in the GR.

I have been living with mine for a few months now, so it is well broken in and sounding very good compared to stock.

TBH the sub in itself is not my cup of tea - it 'honks' a bit in the 60Hz mid bass range. However with the X5 app, it is easy to (and preferable) to wind back level on the sub in favour of F door component L/R sounds bands. It actually starts too get quite punchy then - and the door deadening then really comes into play. The app is also very good and straightforward interface for time alignments and imaging.

Where it is at its best imo is in how well it all holds together as you raise the volume levels, and without breaking up or clipping. This is good across all genres too.

So I would say get a good install, and get someone who can do first pass eq for you to then go on and tweak.

I am also impressed with the rear Coax Focals, again above the Sub.

Good upgrade imo