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Underbody treatment

81K views 316 replies 82 participants last post by  misterkevlar  
#1 ·
Is anyone considering a good sealant underneath the Yaris? Would be good to find places that offer this and gauge costs.
 
#6 ·
Ok, so as I previously mentioned , I intended to treat the underside of the Yaris before it got covered in road Ming.
Roads are dreadful at this time of year, what with salt & general grime.
Also you only get one chance for it to be new.
The car had about 14 miles on the odometer at collection, and we did about 3 miles in it.
As a result, it was literally filthy (I-asked the dealer not to wash the car).
Anyway tonight, I pressure washed the exterior & underside with cold water & then put it on the lift .
I didn't take a before vid, but here is one afterwards.
I used a Sealy underbody sealant gun , with the plastic lance, for going into cavities & its come out quite well.
Iam not so worried about the body, although the rear sill areas look vulnerable .
Its all the shiny black stuff that tends to rust badly, ie subframes & suspension arms.
Also the treatment is very oily, so it facilitates the removal of any fixings later in the cars life.
The rear subframe has loads of welded joints, and several already have the very slightest evidence of corrosion starating.
The ACF is about £90 for 4 litres & I probably won't use 1/2 of that.
I have done all the black bits, tomorrow morning I will start early and spray inside all the body cavities that I can.
There are loads of plugs you can remove to spray inside.

 
#13 ·
Thanks, I guess my main question is can this stuff be sprayed onto the suspension bushings? There are a couple of spherical bearings in the rear suspension and obviously various rubber ones. Most of it is all covered with dust covers but would just want to make sure the oily substance won't jeopardise any of the moving parts in the suspension.

Having said that, your stuff looks good. It's oily but that probably means it can be removed easily with a rag and fuel, and it is not caked on like waxoyl.

How long does this stuff tend to last on the car through all weathers and is it sticky to where road grime, dirt and salt will stick to the oily residue underneath?
 
#12 ·
I have been having bad thoughts about a Land Rover Defender for some time - and had considered 50th Anniversary Japanese import which need some form of underbody treatment. Lot's of the LR guys use Dinitrol.

I'm a novice at this. Would that be an option if planning to keep the car long term?
Yes it's an option, I have it on my Defender. It's black though, if that matters to you (looks good on a Defender, maybe less so on the shiny bits of the GR?).
 
#14 ·
The ACF 50 does attract all the dust etc, so ends up looking dirty.
The thing is all of the product that is in the box sections will not be affected, but continue repelling rust & water.
when it comes to taking bits off for maintenance, everything comes apart like new.
If you get fed up if the dirty look, you can jet wash it off & start again.
 
#20 ·
I'm tempted by ACF-50 in particular, don't really want the heavy black sticky stuff that is Dinitrol or Waxoyl. Problem is I can't find anybody that offers this as a professional service, and realistically I think you need a lift to do it decently (which I don't have). If anybody knows or finds anybody in the Hertfordshire area that would do this, I'd appreciate the details.
 
#32 ·
Ok, so as I previously mentioned , I intended to treat the underside of the Yaris before it got covered in road Ming.
Roads are dreadful at this time of year, what with salt & general grime.
Also you only get one chance for it to be new.
The car had about 14 miles on the odometer at collection, and we did about 3 miles in it.
As a result, it was literally filthy (I-asked the dealer not to wash the car).
Anyway tonight, I pressure washed the exterior & underside with cold water & then put it on the lift .
I didn't take a before vid, but here is one afterwards.
I used a Sealy underbody sealant gun , with the plastic lance, for going into cavities & its come out quite well.
Iam not so worried about the body, although the rear sill areas look vulnerable .
Its all the shiny black stuff that tends to rust badly, ie subframes & suspension arms.
Also the treatment is very oily, so it facilitates the removal of any fixings later in the cars life.
The rear subframe has loads of welded joints, and several already have the very slightest evidence of corrosion starating.
The ACF is about £90 for 4 litres & I probably won't use 1/2 of that.
I have done all the black bits, tomorrow morning I will start early and spray inside all the body cavities that I can.
There are loads of plugs you can remove to spray inside.

Thanks again for this Lighty. I've just done mine, and it was a very easy job, even without a lift (my car was on four axle stands). I'm weird, but I actually found it very satisfying to do as well, and the underneath looks lovely and shiny now! I know it won't stay like that for long, but it's good to know I have some level of winter road protection. Clearly it won't last as long as "proper" underseal, but doing this job once a year is no hardship for me.

Image
 
G
#33 ·
Thanks again for this Lighty. I've just done mine, and it was a very easy job, even without a lift (my car was on four axle stands). I'm weird, but I actually found it very satisfying to do as well, and the underneath looks lovely and shiny now! I know it won't stay like that for long, but it's good to know I have some level of winter road protection. Clearly it won't last as long as "proper" underseal, but doing this job once a year is no hardship for me.

View attachment 689
What product did you use in the end? Was it easy to remove the wheel arch liners? Cheers
Greig