My subframes had evidence of corrosion when the car was brand new.
I understand it probably won’t drop to pieces, but the ACF 50 will also enable the car to be dismantled easier when bolts need to be undone etc.
much prefer the car to look very tidy underneath rather than lots of surface corrosion.
once the salt has gone, prob April, I will pressure wash the whole underside & retreat.

 

I think I’ll get a couple of cans of the Dynax UC and cover the suspension components / arches with that when I get it. Wheels will be coming off to put some kind of coating on then anyway.

 

Does anyone have any recommendations for this in the north west? Preferably Cheshire, Wirral or Merseyside?

So far I've found DPS Auto Body Repairs in Warrington, who are happy to quote once they've had a look at the car, but always good to speak to a few in my experience.

The guy was surprised I would want to protect a new car!

 

Does anyone have any recommendations for this in the north west? Preferably Cheshire, Wirral or Merseyside?

So far I've found DPS Auto Body Repairs in Warrington, who are happy to quote once they've had a look at the car, but always good to speak to a few in my experience.

The guy was surprised I would want to protect a new car!

I'm in the NW and I've had a look and not found anyone who does this. I'm considering renting some garage space for a day and doing it myself. Spend the morning cleaning and drying underneath and an afternoon applying the acf50 and dynax.

 

This thread is interesting but completely new to me as I have never owned a car that I consider worth holding onto for more than a few years. So - do these treatments cause problems for dealerships / arguments for warranty work or other issues? For a couple of hundred quid it seems reasonable and another tick on the 'well looked after' section down the line, but is it frowned upon when trying to maintain by dealerships having to undo bolts etc?

thanks

 

No, the opposite is the case, because it will prevent rust, which is the real enemy of undoing bolts. Plus if you use something thin and clear, like ACF-50, it has zero effect on bolt access anyway.

 

That is what I hoped the answer would be - makes sense. Acf- 50 is it reapplied every x number of years or a one off?

 

ACF-50 doesn't last well at all, will need re-applying every six months if you use the car a lot. I'll be doing mine before every winter - it's an easy job relatively speaking, an hour or so at most (and that includes wheels off and on time).

 

Where would you spray? Or maybe where wouldn't you spray?

 

Well after you have sprayed WD 40 over the brakes and callipers ? I would then turn my attention to rust proofing the exhaust by injecting AC 50 into the exhaust tail pipe, no more rotting back boxes ? I’ll get my coat ?

 

ACF 50 is great for atmospheric corrosion but it'll wash off in weeks under a wheel arch

 

I'm going to get some acf-50 too. Likely just DIY- I was just going to do the under carriage as they say (avoiding wheel arch to stay away from brakes/CBA taking off wheels ? ) is there much exposed metal in the wheel arch?

 

Hello all. Collecting my car next week (11 Nov 020 order) and intend to Lanoguard suspension etc. myself in the drive. I have read elsewhere that you need to careful not to block any drain holes, anyone know where these are?!

 

If anyone knows of any less obvious drain holes in the arches or underneath - please let us know!

I've been thorough with the lanoguard grease and fluid... but it was hard to tell if some gaps are water traps that need protecting or drain holes for a convoluted drain for somewhere higher up. Particularly high up in the arches, around the shock mounts etc.

 

Just spoken to the Dinitrol specialist doing mine and they had one in Jan. His words:

"I must admit we were surprised/disappointed to see absolutely no under body protection applied from factory on the GR we saw last month. Definitely a must have....especially with weather like we are experiencing at the moment."

Just seen this, my guess is this is my car as that's what was said to us too after the did the job in Jan . PMW Chelmsford?

 

Hey, yes we spoke on FB.

Mines going there tomorrow.

 

Search for Dinitrol for Defenders, quite a few around. Just ask them if they'll do a Yaris. Interesting to hear their replies......

 

As I was feeling conscious that I was hijacking Deanos thread thought I’d put on here.

So I’m liking the idea of getting underside sealed with clear dinitrol does anyone know what maintenance is required for this for example does it need re-applied every so often?

I’m also very keen on bilt hamber atom mac and adopting a regular underside cleaning regime like jet washing arches and underside every month or so or after driving on salty roads... Tyrrell answered me in other thread that spraying atom mac or acf-50 underneath won’t disturb or affect the dinitrol underseal but I just want to check if that’s only when applied with a squirty bottle or when applying or with pressure washer?

is it a good idea to combine atom mac and acf-50 or chose one or the other and do the components need to be dry for application or is it ok to apply straight after jet washing?

sorry for all the questions all this stuff is new to me

 

As I was feeling conscious that I was hijacking Deanos thread thought I'd put on here.

So I'm liking the idea of getting underside sealed with clear dinitrol does anyone know what maintenance is required for this for example does it need re-applied every so often?

I'm also very keen on bilt hamber atom mac and adopting a regular underside cleaning regime like jet washing arches and underside every month or so or after driving on salty roads... Tyrrell answered me in other thread that spraying atom mac or acf-50 underneath won't disturb or affect the dinitrol underseal but I just want to check if that's only when applied with a squirty bottle or when applying or with pressure washer?

is it a good idea to combine atom mac and acf-50 or chose one or the other and do the components need to be dry for application or is it ok to apply straight after jet washing?

sorry for all the questions all this stuff is new to me

The guys told me pop in every 2 years for an inspection and top up. No labour just pay for whatever product I use.

 

Loads and loads of videos on YouTube fill your boots ?

 

I’m offshore mate internet too slow to play videos it’s only really good for WhatsApp messaging and forum posting I’m just being impatient ?

 

Loads and loads of videos on YouTube fill your boots ?

Ive been using one of them for years and it's really handy. just done the wife's GTI and my Yeti the other night to get the salt off.

you can't get the karcher chassis wax anymore so I'm just using a rinse aid in it to try and keep much from sticking to the car

I've bought some atom Mac to try it sounds ideal for what I want

 

Do you have a link for that gear pal? What's your latest plans for the underside diy underseal and atom mac washes?

I'm thinking if combining underseal Job and using atom Mac, I was going to use my Nilfisk patio cleaner upside down but Ive spoke to their customer services and they have no way of combining a detergent bottle with the patio cleaner for the atom mac my only option with current set up is use my patio cleaner then use snow foam bottle to apply the atom but don't know how usefell that would be as I don't have a lift and don't think I would generate the angle required to get everywhere.

 

ACF50 vs Atom Mac vs wd40 vs Halfords gt85 on mild steel

https://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=410277

1 week

2 weeks

https://www.instagram.com/p/BrNvToRlrgA/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=1fs3zpoymk3w9

Good link to anti corrosion spray test, disappointing to see the atom Mac's results as I had high hopes for it!! Acf-50 is the winner and still going strong after 2 weeks as far as I've read in the post.

 

Difference is atom mac can be put in a jet wash and done in 5 mins. I ACF'd under my car and it took 4 hours.

 

But it doesn’t seem to work very well is what I was meaning going off those pics unless I’m missing something?

 

But it doesn't seem to work very well is what I was meaning going off those pics unless I'm missing something?

Read their reply. It's not a great test. It'll never be as good as a proper sealant or a oil based coating like ACF but it's a different approach being delivered via water getting on parts you can't use Acf on or get to very easily

 

Yes I was happy with the cost. You can find cheaper but you are mainly paying for the job and that will vary in quality hugely. I can spray a bit of dinitrol around myself for 250 quid but this is a full week's work with prep, dismantling, clean up etc.

Can I ask what exactly was dismantled before treating the underside with Dinitrol? How long did they keep the car for?
What products were used during this process?

Just looking for owners' experiences...

 

All of the trim, tin and exhaust. Rear diffuser and skirt come off too I think. There were 3 products but can't remember the codes. Cavity, underneath and hot stuff. There are some pics in my members car thread.

 

If used stand alone, You will need to use Atom Mac every time the car gets wet. IMO, its real use is to stop flash rust, not a corrosion protectant.

You would be much better applying it then, once dry, applying Dynax UC over the top

 

Is there a comparison between dynax UC and acf 50? I’m curious to know how you clean to reapply them and how it will go down during 6 monthly inspection at Toyota all though both say they are a clear film

I think I’m overthinking everything with this car due to this long wait time I’m gonna end up spoiling the occasion worrying about everything

 

Is there a comparison between dynax UC and acf 50? I'm curious to know how you clean to reapply them and how it will go down during 6 monthly inspection at Toyota all though both say they are a clear film

I think I'm overthinking everything with this car due to this long wait time I'm gonna end up spoiling the occasion worrying about everything

You serious are buddy. They are different products. Sealant for anything body or chassis wise and then just get under with a detailing brush on the suspension and transmission with acf everytime you can be bothered

 

just ordered some lanoguard so see how it compares to the waxolye i have used on the c1

 

Loads and loads of videos on YouTube fill your boots ?

It's a shame for Karcher users that one is now out of production. The chemical dispenser would have been useful.

 

Afternoon all - just been researching various products for DIY'ing this job - I'm aiming to go for Bilt Hamber Dynax-S50 for cavities and behind the arch covers etc. and Dynax-UC for general spraying in more accessible areas and suspension arm components etc.

Then I'm considering ACF50 or Lanoguard as a general spray finish to go over each year - it's been hard to find much out about the Lanoguard beyond their own videos and marketing material, but it does look promising in terms of cost, easy of application - it's just been hard to find any long term reviews of its effectiveness - but searching YouTube I found this interesting long term comparison for another American lanolin based product called 'Fluid Film' - seems to have done it's job for 4 years on these two trucks, so hopefully suggests that a lanolin based product would be effective as a general spray - the comparison underneath starts at about 4mins in:

 

Apparently it’s what keeps sheep waterproof. I’ve never seen a rusty sheep so there may be something in it.

To be fair, my car hasn’t really been out since I applied the Lanoguard and I haven’t had a look underneath to see how it’s doing. I did put some on the exposed hubs of the other car when I put the winter wheels on it and it’s kept the salt and weather out ok.

 

Apparently it's what keeps sheep waterproof. I've never seen a rusty sheep so there may be something in it.

seems good logic ??

 

There is a thread on the DW forum and BH stated that their UC is a lanolin derivative.

The stuff i read on FB lanoguard group says that it needs applied 1-2 times per year

 

That's interesting - if Dynax UC does have a lanolin component then hopefully Lanoguard would likely be 'safe' and compatible as an annual top up spray for the more accessible parts underneath. Hopefully you wouldn't get any funny reactions or one washing the other off or something.