first quick coating of lanoguard gone on round front suspension and rear of subframe and down the middle and rear suspension & subframe... a little goes a long way!

will have the wheels off over the bank holiday and do the arches and possibly remove the front undertray and finish off round the front subframe etc

 

Did mine this weekend ,so many clips to remove and exhaust and stuff to cover as well as cover the hole car to prevent spray sticking to new PPF etc,It can be done on the drive at home but after it taking so much time , I think if you can get it done for £350 -£400 I would get it done by professionals and save 2 days of your own time. Used BH ,

 

Did mine this weekend ,so many clips to remove and exhaust and stuff to cover as well as cover the hole car to prevent spray sticking to new PPF etc,It can be done on the drive at home but after it taking so much time , I think if you can get it done for £350 -£400 I would get it done by professionals and save 2 days of your own time. Used BH ,

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Great work

 

didnt mask the exhaust on mine just sprayed around...no issues no smells no smoke!

not so sure i am going to take off the underside black side panels

 

@Mstar777
that's looks like a top job you've done.
It'll be great if you could keep us updated and drop a few pictures as and when you do inspections / top up's
and just how easy it is to keep those area clean during your normal wash routines

 

I’ve recently had the underside of my GR-4 Waxoyled by Paint-Tec at Roade near Northampton. Considerably cheaper than most of the prices being quoted on here, £150. If if anybody in the area is interested give a Pete at Paint Tec a call and he’ll run through the process with you. They also get the protection into the chassis as well as the outer surface.

 

I've recently had the underside of my GR-4 Waxoyled by Paint-Tec at Roade near Northampton. Considerably cheaper than most of the prices being quoted on here, £150. If if anybody in the area is interested give a Pete at Paint Tec a call and he'll run through the process with you. They also get the protection into the chassis as well as the outer surface.

Well done for finding this and for sharing. I'm in Herefordshire and just cannot find anyone who does this professionally, irrespective of price. Any others form that direction who know or can recommend someone would be greatly appreciated (I know there are a few GRY s in Worcester direction in the Forum). Cheers

 

Swapped to back my original wheels yesterday, so a good opportunity to check the winter trials & tribulations.
Most of the ACF was gone from the wheel arches etc.
So I completely retreated the car again, inside box sections & welded joints was still well covered, so not worried.

 

How was everything looking, had the ACF done it's job, kept the rust at bay?
Great if you could share some pictures

 

The Old saying - 12,000 miles a year is the UK cars average mileage is way out of date, it hasn't been that figure for years, I always used 12k as my go to figure until I checked it a few years ago
I believe the following data is more representative of UK cars and their average annual mileage these days

https://www.bymiles.co.uk/insure/magazine/mot-data-research-and-analysis/

 

Ive asked the guys at the garage where I take mine to be mot and little jobs if they would put it up on the ramp take the wheels of and under seal spray it with a couple of spray cans of Bilt Hamber clear wax, they where a bit unsure first as they said it's a mucky job but convinced them that it won't be sticky black tar and a brush job,they've sort of agreed so I'll go and se them when cars comes.

 

Would the Toyota dealership do this sort of thing before pick up?

 

So I’ve decided on my underbody treatment process and placed my order. I’m not going to bother with undersealing and having sticky residue that needs topped up inspected, looking dirty etc cause I know if I get some corrosion anywhere after going Through that process I will be angry. I want to enjoy this car and I know if I start undersealing and PPF’ing it il end up being scared to take it out.

I’m going to use regular underside washing with Salt-away it is safe to use on all surfaces and is a spray and leave solution. It was made for the marine guys so it’s good enough to stop boats, boat trailers. Outboard engines etc corroding and rotting after getting dunked in salt water it’s more than good enough for a car. It’s a bit pricey but is highly concentrated and works at low dilution as low at 1:500 so will last years. It dissolves and removes salt from any surface and also anything else that is soluble. So about once a week or after a drive on gritted road il just drive onto couple ramps blast underneath.. job done. After every winter il do a surfex hd degrease and then finish off with this stuff. Probs similar to people’s plans with atom mac but I’m not convinced at dilution rations when power washed

 

Ive got 2 litres of lanoguard which I’m going to apply with a garden pressure sprayer

plan is as soon as I get the car home get the car up, wheels off for ceramic coating and do the underide of the car and behind arch liners while fitting the mudflaps

I’ve got side ppf to go on once I decontaminate the paint. I’m not going to drove it till I’ve prepped it then I’m just going to use it and enjoy it

as maintenance I’ll atom Mac the underside with the chassis cleaner once a month or so or more regularly when winter comes

The atom Mac does work I think - I sprayed it in the brakes to try it after I washed the car and they didn’t ginger up

putting 5ml to a litre just seems weak though but time will tell

 

Ive got 2 litres of lanoguard which I'm going to apply with a garden pressure sprayer

plan is as soon as I get the car home get the car up, wheels off for ceramic coating and do the underide of the car and behind arch liners while fitting the mudflaps

I've got side ppf to go on once I decontaminate the paint. I'm not going to drove it till I've prepped it then I'm just going to use it and enjoy it

as maintenance I'll atom Mac the underside with the chassis cleaner once a month or so or more regularly when winter comes

The atom Mac does work I think - I sprayed it in the brakes to try it after I washed the car and they didn't ginger up

putting 5ml to a litre just seems weak though but time will tell

That was my original plan with the atom Mac but using it in jetwash over dilutes it, I spoke to bilt hamber they recommended using it in a pump sprayer to ensure sufficient concentration. I'm gonna use atom mac for my brakes and when leaving car parked up Aberdeen for 3 weeks il give it a spray and leave.

 

My garage just used this stuff. Comes in a wax and clear spray. They filled all the grommets and covered what they could access via removal of the minimal undertrays. The subframes, although painted, are vulnerable to stone chips etc so we left them and I will keep a close eye for damage.

The surprising thing is the general lack of trim protection, especially in the front arches. I think that maybe the quest to lose weight has come at a price of longevity.

 

yeah it’s surprising how much under the arches are exposed

 

Golf Clubsport S is the same ,those stones ping the underside, car has been made redundant since GR arrived 7 k miles in 4.5 years , I think the GR will have 7 k miles this time next year, very addictive being a rally driver

 

Golf Clubsport S is the same ,those stones ping the underside, car has been made redundant since GR arrived 7 k miles in 4.5 years , I think the GR will have 7 k miles this time next year, very addictive being a rally driver

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I had a red one. Epic car but didn't use it much sadly

 

So my product came today with the mixing unit that attaches to my hose this will give approx 3790 litres of nice foamy salt dissolving goodness that's a lot of washes. 177ml mixes about 88.5litres. Enough to cover and soak every nook and cranny.

 

decided to get Krown anti corrosion treatment done by Rob in Dudley. Very impressed with the service and a few pics below...... note the corrosion in one of the pics. car has done 150 dry miles....

 

decided to get Krown anti corrosion treatment done by Rob in Dudley. Very impressed with the service and a few pics below...... note the corrosion in one of the pics. car has done 150 dry miles....

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Grand job; is that Rob over a Tipton? He's v good!

 

Excellent; he's got mine coming his ay too

 

Any sort of warranty or period of time it's meant to last?

There is a 5 year warranty. But all the usual get outs Apply. I did ask if top ups were required but it all comes down to how much and what type of use it gets. My GR will probably never go out on salted roads and it's unlikely to do more than 6000 miles a year. But if I do keep it for a long time I didn't want the body deteriorate to the extent that I have experienced with my other Toyota. Not that it was a right off but it looks very shabby after 16 years and 130,000 miles...... but mechanically it has been faultless, which is why I have never got rid of it ?

 

Hi Andy - it has been commented that Krown causes rubber deterioration. Have you seen any evidence of that? I intended to use Rob but am beginning to wonder now

 

What happened to cars being made out of stuff that didn’t corrode? I thought stainless steel solved all this sort of issue - how come this is a ‘thing’? Certain metals susceptible to salt etc? It’s an interesting topic though as I’ve never bought a car that I could see myself keeping for a long time

 

What happened to cars being made out of stuff that didn't corrode? I thought stainless steel solved all this sort of issue - how come this is a 'thing'? Certain metals susceptible to salt etc? It's an interesting topic though as I've never bought a car that I could see myself keeping for a long time

Hmmmmm...... now if only manufacturers used stainless or titanium fasteners that would help immensely but all down to cost. I had to have all the exhaust manifold bolts extracted from my 997 Turbo and it cost around £400 to replace them as I recall. The bolts were like cheese.......

 

Nowadays I think it’s safe to assume most cars engines and drive trains if maintained can out last the body but if the body and drivetrain last forever who will buy a new car haha

 

Just picking up on the stainless steel discussion - it's an interesting one - One other consideration is that I thought stainless often isn't as strong as normal steel bolts so can be unsitable for some high load/strain type applications. Might be wrong though?

 

Quite possibly - I doubt car upgrades are normally bought from screw fix but it gives a comparison of a normal nut Vs a SS one! Forces are one to consider though!

 

When I purchased my Nomad, you get the option to have it built with stainless bolts.
think,it was about £480 extra..

 

I did get a few of my cars Waxolyed in the past, there was a place in Hertfordshire that used to operate out of some farm buildings. They'd put the car on a stand, blast the underside with a lance water jet to get rid of all the mud and grime, then got to town with the Waxoyl, first on the underside with the black thick stuff, sprayed on, and then the a long thin tube srayer with clear Waxoyl inside the doors, sills, box sections etc. It was a totally messy process with droplets of wax getting all over the paintwork, glass etc and it stunk for weeks afterwards. In fact having to clean all the crap off the paintwork and glass put me off doing it again.

Are there 'cleaner' less noxious ways this is done now, that doesn't leave gunge and residue over everything when it is done, and are there any companies like this in London/SE anyone can recommend?

 

2 litres of sheep juice arrived today. Purchased from an eBay seller, but left my order in the lanoguard webpage and got a 10% off code which would have made them cheaper by a few pounds.

 

2 litres of sheep juice arrived today. Purchased from an eBay seller, but left my order in the lanoguard webpage and got a 10% off code which would have made them cheaper by a few pounds.
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I got 2l of lanoguard too. I'm using a pressure sprayer to apply it. See how it goes but it gets good reviews and seems easily to apply

 

I'm 2/3 way doing mine with bilt hamber uc sprayed everywhere and s50 in what little cavities there are. Jacked up the front , wheels off, arch liners etc off, rear wheels on small ramps and the middle of the car done. Will Jack the rear up, wheels off etc on Friday morning
Bought three cans of uc and havnt quite finished the first yet

 

I'm 2/3 way doing mine with bilt hamber uc sprayed everywhere and s50 in what little cavities there are. Jacked up the front , wheels off, arch liners etc off, rear wheels on small ramps and the middle of the car done. Will Jack the rear up, wheels off etc on Friday morning
Bought three cans of uc and havnt quite finished the first yet

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Any closer pics to the axle stand point pal?

 

I did get a few of my cars Waxolyed in the past, there was a place in Hertfordshire that used to operate out of some farm buildings. They'd put the car on a stand, blast the underside with a lance water jet to get rid of all the mud and grime, then got to town with the Waxoyl, first on the underside with the black thick stuff, sprayed on, and then the a long thin tube srayer with clear Waxoyl inside the doors, sills, box sections etc. It was a totally messy process with droplets of wax getting all over the paintwork, glass etc and it stunk for weeks afterwards. In fact having to clean all the crap off the paintwork and glass put me off doing it again.

Are there 'cleaner' less noxious ways this is done now, that doesn't leave gunge and residue over everything when it is done, and are there any companies like this in London/SE anyone can recommend?

I've got a Mk2 Fiesta XR2, when I got it in 2001 I did the same... Black thick stuff underneath, then the yellowy clear stuff in the doors, sills etc. I've still got it, in storage, 20 actual years on and it still stinks!

Still debating whether to do anything with my GRY underneath, certainly won't be anything like the XR2 tho ?